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Maze* by Gordon Ramsay (Revisited)

Friday, 25 June 2010

Reviewed by The Wild Boar

We had already eaten here last year and while we were unimpressed by the food in general, the restaurant itself is a pretty good sight especially during the rare occasions when the sun deems itself worthy to play with us as the large airy room was comfortable while managing to avoid the apparent sterility that affects some of the other Michelin starred restaurants.

Actually, my granduncle wanted to eat Japanese food, but on a Sunday lunch a lot of them were closed. We did manage to book a table for nine at Maze on very short notice, so perhaps that says a little about how popular it is now. Anyway for simplicity’s sake, we all had the same 4 savoury courses.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 01

Chilled gazpacho, slow cooked octopus, ink, aioli, cucumber”. On a hot summers day, a cold soup was certainly refreshing. Tastewise though it was a little on the tart side and the squid ink granita added an interesting colour twist but not anything in terms of flavour. Similarly, the aioli didn’t blend well unlike the original gazpacho (or salmorejo which I prefer) which has pretty strong lashings of garlic. On the bright side, the octopus was really tender, the texture was more like fish.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 02

Pressed pork shoulder, smoked tongue shavings, herb paste, coleslaw, shallot vinegar”. We were all a bit surprised as it was actually a terrine. The mixture itself was pretty decent and tasty but very meaty and lacked enough fat that usually comes in a terrine. That being said, the shallot vinegar that accompanied it was a refreshing change from the usual sweet chutney/jam bit.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 03

Pan roasted Shetland cod, ‘ham, egg & peas’”. Firstly, the cod itself was still nice and juicy and was nicely seasoned but the additional ham made the entire mixture far too salty. The pea soup mixture was also slightly weird for me while the little soft boiled quail’s egg was rather insignificant.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 04

Salt marsh lamb rump with coastal herbs, Sussex Slipcote, lamb consommé”. The lamb was beautifully cooked, juicy pink in the middle and cooked around the rim. The consommé was a great accompaniment while the chives added a fresh green aroma. I’m never a huge fan of cheese and the goat’s cheese had a strong sharp smell which I scarcely enjoyed. Also I think the saltiness from the samphire was just a bit too much when there was already cheese on the plate.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 10

At this point we had desserts and the table just shared the two dishes below amongst us.

Pistachio cake, Kent raspberries, pistachio crumble”. The cake had sufficient pistachio taste but the texture was slightly weird, not really a cake nor a bread. It also seemed a little on the bland side and it could have used a little bit more sugar, especially when combined with the rather tart raspberries.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 07

Lemon posset, strawberry salad, beurre noisette & hazelnut”. The lemon posset had the right balance between sour, sweet and creamy while the nuts added some nice crunchyness. I felt the lemon sorbet was a bit of a sour overkill though.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 06

Altogether, the bill came up to £500 for the nine of us including two bottles of wine and more than a couple bottles of still water which work out to about £55 a head.

Maze, Gordon Ramsay 08

Food – 6.5
Service – 7.0
Atmosphere – 6.0
Value – 4.0

I found the food here a lot better than on my first visit, but I found that most of the courses still had quite a few issues even though they were quite minor ones.

Best bit: seeing my cousin writhe in embarrassment as he wore short pants while the other diners were quite smartly dressed.
Worst bit: pistachio cake (more like mush), blergh.

15 Grosvenor Sq
Official website
Tel: +44(0)207495 2211

Maze on Urbanspoon

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