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Hache, Burger Connoisseurs [Restaurant Review]

Sunday, 20 September 2009

Reviewed by The Wild Boar

In the same way as regular pub food getting transformed into gourmet food in gastropubs, so has the humble burger been modified into a culinary force to be reckoned with. Popularised by Gourmet Burger Kitchen initially, the subsequent explosion of chains across London has led to a fall in standards.

Step forward a new challenger to the burger throne: Hache. According to their website, they’re a family run business of three years old, with two branches (Fulham which we visited, and another in Camden) serving 100% prime Scotch beef.

The ladies had a Forest Fruit smoothie, containing natural yoghurt, apple juice and Wildflower Honey. They felt it was a bit sour and contained a lot of the natural berry seeds while I thought it seemed a bit watery. For the price (£3.65), you’re better off buying an Innocent smoothie from the nearest Tesco’s.

Forest Fruit smoothie

Before I start talking about the burgers itself, I need to whinge a bit about the buns: they’re crap. All the burgers are served with ciabatta buns, which I don’t mind in itself, but they seemed a poor fit with the burgers, especially as the buns were quite dry, tough and generally tasteless (I know I’m not alone in this line of though).

Anyway, I had a Le Sicilian, which had Parma ham and melted mozzarella cheese added on top of the basic beef burger. I took two bites of the top bun then threw it away but kept the bottom layer or I would have been hungry the rest of the night. The beef itself, cooked medium rare to order, was reddish pink in the middle with the lovely smell and taste of the griddle. It was seasoned quite lightly I feel, a pinch more salt and pepper would be ideal, but the meat was juicy and beefy enough to make me happy. In retrospect, the Parma ham was just too delicate to pair with the manly beef patty and mozzarella cheese is tasteless in itself and didn’t bring anything interesting to the party.

Le Sicilian

Meanwhile the wife had a Cote a Croute – a chunky cod steak with a crust of blue cheese, red pepper, coriander and chilli. As someone who absolutely hates blue cheese, I was a bit wary of this but conceded a mouthful to try for reviewing’s sake. It turned out to be actually very nice as I didn’t taste any cheese in it, but the cod itself was meaty without being dry and flavoured very well.

Cote a Croute

A friend tried the Jerk Chicken, which she said was a bit dry but made better with the accompanying mango chutney. She also added there weren’t a lot of spices obvious to taste either.

Jerk Chicken

We ordered a side of onion rings and chunky chips to share. The onion rings nice and big, with a crisp batter and not oily at all. Verdict: good!


The chunky chips on the other hand was a bit normal and unassuming, didn’t inspire any strong emotions from any of us.

Altogether the bill came up to £16 each. The service was reasonable, but the restaurant was half empty despite it being 7.30pm on a Sunday night. The lighting was depressingly dark but the décor seemed decent enough.

Food – 5.5
Service – 4.0
Atmosphere – 4.5
Value – 6.0

I have to say that so far, this is the best burger joint I’ve sampled in London, amongst GBK, Byron’s, Ed’s Diner, Lucky 7s. The beef patty was better than any I’ve had previously, including the supposedly wagyu burger in Chez Gerard, but the bun here is just terrible. Even worse than the buns though, was the lack of milkshake on the menu, criminal! I nearly drove to Lucky 7s to buy an xxxtra thick chocolate milkshake after my meal (£5.50, and worth every penny).

Would I eat here again? Umm well, actually… I want to try Hawkmoor’s burger, it has frigging bone marrow in the patty.

329 - 331 Fulham Road
SW10 9QL
Tel: +44(0)20 7823 3515
Official website

Hache Burgers on Urbanspoon

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